The bilge pump is unswitched, as is the Renogy DC-DC charger. Wondering if they are configured correctly. Solar is planned in the future and would connect to the Renogy DC-DC charger.Ī Cerbo GX with the GX Touch 50 display will be purchased and a BMV 712 battery monitor. The alternator would directly charge the engine start battery.Ī Renogy 50A DC-DC charger with MPPT would connect to the alternator to provide charging to the LiFePO4 battery bank. The engine start battery is a FLA connected to a 100 A Balmar alternator with a MC-412 regulator. Question: Does the 3000W Multiplus require 400Ah battery bank or is 300Ah okay? The house battery bank would be 3 or 4 100Ah BattleBorn batteries that have internal BMS. The single shore power line would feed to the Multiplus, then split with one circuit to the Air Conditioner (would disconnect if shore power is lost) and the other to the AC panel. Planning on having one 50A 120V (three wire) plug and a Victron Galvanic Isolator. One powers the Air Conditioning and the other goes to the Xantrex Freedom 20. The shore power is currently two 30A 120V circuits. 20201011 Beneteau 361 Electrical Schematic.pdf Have repurposed one of the Victron diagrams to take a stab at the necessary components.
RENOGY BATTERY MONITOR WIRING DIAGRAM UPGRADE
Want to upgrade to 300-400Ah LiFePO4 batteries 12V and a Victron 3000W Multiplus. Have a 2001 Beneteau 361 with a Xantrex Freedom 20 and failing batteries. Q2) should I buy the extension cable and wire it as per the diagrams I can find regardless of whether I have a duff battery on not? james-ward asked at 03:39 PM Q1) is my wiring enough to mess with the cell balancing? The only possible reason I can see why it was done this way is that my left hand black cable is too short to go to the BMS left port and needs the 2m victron ( ) extension cable I can't find anything wired vaguely similar ANYWHERE. Mine goes B4L-B2R B4R-B3L B3R-B1L B2L-BMSL B1R-BMSR Now having a look my black BMS cables aren't wired like anything I've seen.Īll diagrams I can see the left black cable of Battery1 goes to the left BMS port the right black cable or B1 goes to B2 left cable B2 right to B3 left, B3 right goes to battery 4 left and lastly battery 4 right to BMS right port (a 4 battery version of this link ) The guy (pro) who fitted the system (now unwell) thinks its a duff battery and has asked that I swap 1 and 4 over to see what happens (cell 4 in battery 1 is the issue) It balances after about 6 hours on hook-up via the multiplus 20 but as soon as we boat off it won't balance the next time I charge via engine or geni/multiplus, and BMS shuts down due to one cell (always the same one) going OV at 3.76v I have an issue with a victron 150ah LiFePO4 (600ah bank of 4 at 12v) not balancing after several attempts. So it would be very helpfull if someone could help me with some wiring schema / diagram. I do have quite some experience with electric systems in general (both AC and DC) but I'm not 100% sure about the VE.bus wiring. The idea is be to fully off-the-grid capable, even on days with less sun (therefore the solar panel overkill, and because we simply have a very big roof). Victron Smart Phoenix Charger 12V/50A (1+1) Victron Smart Lithium 12.8V / 200Ah battery the potential total capacity would be 1800W exceeding the 100A (12x 100W = 1200W), but keep in mind that these are Chinese (Ali Express), our tests show roughly 50% - 60% of their specified '100W' performance on a sunny day. We have installed 18 flat and bendable solar panels (100W - 18V from a Chinese vendor) on the roof, they are all connected to a Victron Smart MPPT 250/100. We decided to use a 12V system (so no 24V or 48V) because of all kind of equipment we already have. We are transforming an old (1997) American School bus to a Campervan / RV / Mobilehome. Sorry for the long winded question and thank you in advance! I realise I can just turn the PV isolator switches off and achieve the same result, but I want it all to turn off with the flick of one switch.
A large cable (same size as battery cable) joining my negative buss bar to the trailer chassis.Īnother note - The reason I have run the MPPT positive cable through the other pole on my DC isolator is because when I switch that off I want everything to stop, including the charging of my batteries. All the earth's from my AC loads will connect back to my negative buss bar I haven't drawn any of the AC side of of the installation for the purposes of this diagram but I'd like to add that in addition to the connections in this diagram, I will also have: This is how I am planning in wiring my off grid tiny house on wheels (essentially a caravan) and just wanted to see if anyone can see any issues with it? Is the earth circuit correct? Photo attached.
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